Ensaimadas from Mallorca






By Martin Alexander
© May 1999



"Eugh!" I've never seen anyone so hairy in my life." That's what my wife said as she came in through the archway to the patio after her early morning walk. Typical of her - expecting me to remind her of her behaviour at the club the previous night, and wanting to change the subject before it had been raised. I don't mind her letting off steam by having a bit of a go at me when we're alone, but it's a bit much when there are others present.

As it happened, I had something else to tell her. That morning, the bread van had made its usual stop; I'd bought a loaf for lunch, and a croissant and an ensaimada to go with our Saturday coffees in the cool of the morning; and Antonio, all excited, had told me the news.

"Who do you mean?" I asked mildly, looking up from my brandied coffee and the magazine I was reading. She was flushed. Perhaps a touch of sun, though it had only come up over the crest of the mountains an hour before, and the air was still pleasantly cool.

"Vicente," Judith said. "I think he's got a mistress up by the pigeon loft. He's always got his shirt off, flexing his muscles. Hairy like a monkey."

Judith usually walks down the lane to the golf club and then up the sunken path between the greens, along the dry stream-bed to the village; but she sometimes heads off through the almond groves, past the old mill and the beehives, and the little field where Vicente and his friends keep their pigeons. There are the lofts, of course, and a cosy little shed off in the corner. It's got a tiny bedroom that's never used, and a fireplace and benches where the men sit and drink and cook paella of a Sunday afternoon. Someone goes to tend to the birds every day. When it's his turn, at the weekend, and we're back in Hong Kong, Vicente slows as he passes the house, to see that everything's undisturbed. Every now and then he'll park his old van at the back and walk round our house, rattling the shutters and using his key to check on my precious car under its tarpaulin in the garage. Back at home, in the humid heat and the dirty smog of Hong Kong, I often imagine that stroll across the dry earth: the crunching carob beans and the weak winter sunlight; Vicente's breath - though in my imagination it is my own - a tentative mist in the bright air; white walls, a blue sky to drown in, and the yellow glow of the earthy afternoon. It's what keeps us going in the filth of what I like to call our money pit, out East: the thought of our Spanish home, the acres of orchard and vineyard, Judith's walks and her hours of golf, my wine cellar and the pool, my beloved car, and our simple friends in the village.

"Well, someone fancies him, even if you don't." I waited for the inevitable question, but she was already disappearing through to the kitchen.

I had to admit that I agreed with her, though. Vicente isn't the most attractive of men. When he shaves, it's to cut a bald, swarthy swathe between the beards of chest and chin; though most of the time there's just a dark, stubbly path between his hairy ears. You can see the tangled mat cushioning the muscles of his back through the transparency of his damp shirt as he turns from the bar to reach for a bottle; and there are always wet patches under his arms. It isn't just that he is enormously hairy - he also sweats abundantly and peers at his world through thick spectacles. His magnified eyes swim brownly about behind his glasses, and he stutters loudly in the presence of women, cursing his impediment as he struggles to overcome it. But he and I have been friends for over twenty years - since my parents' first summer holiday here - and there's real affection between us, born of the shared optimism and energy of our youth. Isaac and Esau, I used to joke.

During the village fiestas, he'd drag me over the barriers and onto the slippery cobbles where we'd run with the bulls, skittering up the wrought-iron window grilles at the last minute, Vicente hauling me up by the collar as often as not. I could never catch and turn the skyrockets that were fired down the Calle Mayor by the village youths, but there were always lots of admiring boys - and girls - around us in the bar afterwards. He shouted and laughed and his energetic presence always seemed the centre of attraction. The hair and the muscles and the sweat and the stutter never seemed to offend the simple tastes of the crowd he always gathered. I suppose I sort of basked in his glow.

That said, I'm aware of a peasant clumsiness about him now that I never noticed as a young man. And Ana María - I was surprised at the way she went to seed after the children: I'd always thought of Vicente as having someone young and beautiful and energetic - well, someone like Judith, really. The fact is, there's a whole world of background, education and travel - and experience - that separates us. In all modesty, the glow is now mine. Perhaps it was I, the holidaying visitor, accepted but on the edge, who was always destined for wider success. But we talk little about that, and our conversation is mainly of old times. To entertain Judith - whose Spanish is not good - and Ana María - who has no English - we discuss the harvest, the pigeons, and the desperate business of making ends meet when prices are rising and tourism declines.

Last year, when the recession came, Vicente got his weekday job driving a refrigerated truck full of serrano hams around the Mallorcan bars. But before that, Judith and I would often go out with Ana María and Vicente on a Tuesday, their night off. We'd drive off in my new Jag and eat at one of the restaurants on the beach, or in one of the villages up the valley; or they'd come out to the house and sit blissfully by the pool as someone else, for once, sweated in the kitchen. Then, in the after-dinner darkness of the stars, or under the rising moon, we'd sip at the rough brandy he'd brought. It always tasted fine in their company, but I never brought a bottle back to Hong Kong after that first year. It didn't travel well. Our reminiscences flavoured the liquor with the warmth of youth and the excitement of our madcap exploits in the bars and the beaches of our bachelor days. Ana María and Judith would sit, quietly contented, in the softness of the night, or busy themselves in the kitchen with the cleaning up. Ana María was always grateful to be spared the preparation, but by the end of the evening she was itching to get back to her place in the kitchen.

We invited Vicente and Ana María to my daughter's wedding in Hong Kong - they couldn't come, of course, but we did invite them - and we were to have gone to Vicente's younger sister's wedding that very Saturday afternoon. As it happened, Judith was out of sorts - perhaps her walk had been a little too strenuous - and in the event we didn't go.

Only a few weeks before, though, Judith had taken pity on Ana María's dreary life and had treated her to a mid-week shopping trip to El Corte Inglés, the big store in Valencia. As a matter of fact, we were a little surprised at Vicente's reaction when he got back from Mallorca on the Friday night and found out. He stormed on about extravagance, about gallivanting while he was away from home sweating for a living, about neglecting the bar and losing customers, and there being little enough money as it was without her having to prance off to Valencia to spend it. It didn't seem to help that Judith had paid for everything; and though Vicente calmed down, the atmosphere was a little strained in the bar that weekend.
"He wanted to show me the new babies." Judith was back with her mug. "They'd just hatched, but there was a barrow of droppings by the shed and I couldn't bear the smell, so I stayed on the road."

"What took you so long, then?"

"Bloody dogs. That Ronni was out in the road again. Gate left open." She paused, standing by the table, and sipped her tea. She put the mug down and fiddled with her hair. "What do you mean, someone fancies him?"

"Antonio came by with some gossip as well as the pastries while you were out."

"Yes - I saw him up by the pigeon loft on his way back to the village." She spoke casually, gazing vacantly at the wall; but I caught a sudden glance, as though she was expecting me to say something about last night. She was nervous, and I can't say I blamed her. I must say, she is hard to manage, these days.

I waved at the plate of pastries. "Here, have an ensaimada."

Antonio's mainland ensaimadas were plain, flat little spirals of dusted pastry, the size of a side plate - not like the enormous, feathery, boxed wheels stuffed with cream that Vicente brought over to the mainland on the Mallorca ferry every Friday night for Ana María. The ensaimadas Vicente got were special ones, too: each in a scarlet box with splendid gold writing in a spiral round the lid. The island is famous all over Spain not just for its prosperity - which had lured Vicente - but for the delicacy and flavour of its renowned ensaimadas. Almost every traveller returning to the mainland, by air or by sea, carries a parcel of the pastries in wide, shallow boxes, one on top of the other, packed like a stack of sweet pizzas and neatly tied with hairy string.

She'd not been happy, Ana María, being left to run the bar by herself, with two children to look after and only that clumsy boy from the village to help - and Vicente playing mine expansive host at weekends, when his friends all crowded the room. But she accepted the inevitability of it; the bar was in a side street of the village and only old customers or those who knew the family ever bothered to come in during the week. The new places on the main road, with their music and the rows of mopeds outside, were where all the passing tourists and the young people went. Vicente's bar echoed emptily with the television and the loud voices of the three or four old men who were the bar's weekday fixtures. They sat, in their dirty black jackets and trousers, as far apart from each other as possible, shouting deafly across the room and sucking coffee and small beer through weathered, wrinkled lips into their toothless old mouths. In the empty road outside, fat old ladies with their black dresses and bunned grey hair punctuated the pavement, perched like crows on little low chairs, cackling small gossip across their distances up and down the street.

The new job brought a welcome increase in income to Vicente and Ana María - though the ferry, the rental of the truck and the room in Inca meant that what Vicente brought back with the weekly pastry was hardly enough to make a real difference. Ana María consoled herself with most of the ensaimada at the end of the week's only busy evening, pursing her lips as she cut each of the children a narrow slice. We'd been in the bar on the Friday night a week before, when Vicente had returned at about midnight, as usual, from Mallorca - or so we'd all believed. Ana María had been run off her feet: as usual, too busy to chat. Her face was damp, her eyes were listless, and her shapeless dress stretched against her amiable bulk as she leaned towards the counter with the last plate of glistening tripe for the last shabby old man.

Vicente had filled the bar with his greetings, drowning out the television and startling the old fellow into a squawk of laughter at something he said. He'd nodded at me and kissed Judith on the cheek, whispering something outrageous to make her blush; and in the same movement had swung the ensaimada up in the air like a trophy for his wife. That, at least, brightened Ana María's eyes. She pushed back a tired strand of hair with the back of her wrist, wiped her fingers on her apron and reached out her hand for the flat, octagonal parcel of cardboard and string.

Judith sat down opposite me at the patio table. She ignored Antonio's limp pastries.
"Well?"

"Well what?" I replied innocently, though I knew perfectly well what she meant.

"The gossip!" There was an extra edge of exasperation in her voice that morning. The dogs must have unsettled her.

"Oh. Well, it seems that our Vicente has been playing fast and loose behind Ana María's ample back." I grinned, but her face was blank, waiting. I continued: "Antonio could hardly contain himself. You know how taciturn he usually is - just a hoot of the horn and a grunt as he takes your money. And today he came right up the drive - opened the gates himself - and told me everything."

Judith's chair scraped, and she squirmed with impatience. She rolled her eyes. Very edgy, this morning. I'm not surprised, after being so outspoken last night - and then the dogs.

My calm deliberation annoys her - she expects everyone to be as giddy and energetic as she is. Of course, someone has to keep things on an even keel, be organised, keep the money coming in. And if I were as irresponsible as she is, where would we be?

"For Christ's sake, get on with it! What did he tell you?"

I cleared my throat. I don't like to be rushed, and I was ready to enjoy drawing the story out - for my pleasure, if not for hers. But she gets irritated if I tease too much, and so I did get on with it.

Apparently, Vicente had gone off, as usual, well before dawn on the Monday morning of the week in question. Again, as usual, Ana María had stayed in bed until about five. Then she'd got up and gone across the street to the bar to open it up for the first customers, the men from the builders' merchants on the edge of the village, at six. The beginning of a normal week.

On the Friday, Vicente's younger sister Estela - tall girl, good figure - had come round at lunchtime in a bit of a panic. The local florist had been let down by her supplier, and neither the bouquets for the bride and bridesmaids nor the decorations for the church would be ready. Without the flowers, it would be more like a funeral than a wedding - that old church is a drab place at the best of times. Anyway, in desperation she'd phoned one of the shops in Valencia; but she didn't drive and would Ana María please leave her in charge of the children and the bar and drive up to fetch the flowers?

Ana María was exhausted already, but of course she had no option but to say yes. And so off she went, with the address on a scrap of paper: opposite the station in Calle Federico Lorca, between the Hotel Madrid and the Panadería Libertad. Though she had seldom visited the city, she had her bearings from the ill-fated shopping expedition, and found a place in the same car park at the side of the station, almost exactly across the road from the florist's.

By then it was nearly six, and the shops were open. Ana María looked left down the one-way street, crossed over to the pavement opposite, and was just about to enter the florist's shop when she was stopped in her proverbial tracks by two things that intruded from her peripheral vision to her right. As she told it to Antonio, and he to me, she was so startled and puzzled by what flooded her consciousness from its edges that she stood still - "gawping", said Antonio, "and frozen like a statue" - except for her head, which was swinging like a puppet's between the window of the bakery and the kerb. Behind the glass, in a carefully fanned display, were a dozen scarlet ensaimada boxes, draped with a narrow silk banner that read "Ensaimadas de Mallorca: Diarios por Ferry". And, leaning with the camber against the kerb, its wheels in the cobbled gutter, was Vicente's truck, with "Jamones Serranos" in matching scarlet letters, curved across the white of the truck's back doors.

Her head stopped swinging when she saw her husband backing out of the bakery's doorway. He was preceded by the scarlet package that dangled from the fingers of his muscular arm, held out behind him; and his body was bent forward, into the doorway, revealing, as he emerged, that he was attached at the lips to a strikingly neat and elegant woman, whose arms cemented their union and her reluctance at his departure by their firm entanglement around his retreating neck.

His eyes, enlarged by surprise and shock even more than they were magnified by his glasses, met those of his wife at the very instant when his lips parted company with those of his secret beloved. Ana María's fury was, according to Antonio, something to see. The whole street had stopped: the florist had emerged, beaming - and then bemused - and laden with flowers ready for the wedding; voices were raised, blows were struck, and screams were heard. Vicente was made to drive home behind his fuming wife, having backed over the hapless ensaimada, which had ended up in the gutter at the first blow. He'd had to give up his job in Valencia with the hams, and was back behind the bar on the following Monday. As an afterthought, Antonio also told me that when Ana María's back was momentarily turned, Vicente had winked, grinned, and mouthed, "Me queda una" - "I've got one left." Antonio seemed to find that very funny, but wouldn't say any more.

"I wonder who she is?" I mused. " What a rogue!"

Judith gasped. "The sly bastard!" She was clearly shocked at Vicente's treatment of Ana María.

"Mind you," I said to her, "that's not to be repeated." Ana María would kill me - to say nothing of Antonio and Vicente. Of course, the children know nothing, but Vicente had had some awkward explaining to do about the missing ensaimada.

"Dark horse, eh? He never let out a whisper to me. I must say, I'm a bit miffed - he's always told me about his bits on the side and this time I didn't have an inkling." I was a bit more than miffed, actually - we've been the best of old friends, and had, as young men, boasted to each other of our conquests. Well, him more than me, I suppose.

Judith startled me with a sudden, high laugh. "I'm not surprised," she said, wryly. She shook her head, but seemed a little calmer. "Remember all those ambitions you two used to boast about? Travelling the world? Making a fortune? Making fools of all the smug old bastards? Look at you! You may be rich, but you're not exactly God's gift, are you?" Last night's nasty edge was creeping back into her voice. "And where's it got him? A fat wife and his dead father's grimy bar in a back street? At least he keeps himself in good nick and has enough about him to go out and grab a bit of life!" By the end of that little speech she was quite worked up again. Hormones. She is flushed and edgy. Perhaps, when she's more in the mood, I'll suggest a shorter walk.

I cleared my throat and was about to reply, but she went on. "I'm hot. I'm off for a swim." She put the mug abruptly down on the table - a little clumsily, I thought - and I had to reach out to stop it from tipping over. Then she was gone.

"Put some cream on," I called. "I think you've caught the sun already." I stood up and took the mugs in one hand and the plate and bottle in the other. But as I was about to go through the archway and into the darkness of the house, I saw a bright smear of white and dark green on the sunny terracotta tiles where Judith had been standing. I put the plate and the mugs and the bottle back down on the table and looked more closely. Bird droppings. I looked up at the sky - rather pointlessly, of course. Perhaps it had been one of Vicente's pigeons. Must have quietly dropped its little message before Judith had arrived, while I was reading - and I hadn't noticed. She must have stepped in it.


E-mail: Martin Alexander